Saturday, 3 October 2015

“No man ever steps in the same river twice, for it's not the same river and he's not the same man.” ― Heraclitus


A lot can change in a year. Circumstances, lifestyle, workplace, relationships….perspective.  As most of you know, this time last year, almost to the day, I attended We Day in Toronto for the second time and was once again overwhelmingly inspired by the energy and passion of the youth that were there. On that very same day I applied for a Junior Professional Consultant position with UNA-Canada. Six months later I was offered a position with the Education team in the UNICEF Kenya Country Office.
My goal in taking this position with UNICEF, halfway around the world from Canada, was to gain relevant knowledge and experience to advance my career in development work. An aside, another change is that I’ve stopped calling it “International Development” work. When you live in a country and become really connected with the people it ceases to feel “International”.  It has been my work that has had the most profound impact on me over this half year, far beyond my career aspirations.

Branded!
Like all of you, I cannot stand the thought of any sort of child abuse whether it is neglect, exploitation, physical abuse, etc. And when you see or hear about young boys and girls who are denied the right to go to school and instead are found working, married, or on the streets addicted to alcohol and drugs it’s really heartbreaking. Poverty strips away all of the options that most of us take for granted. In particular, two trips to the field really made it clear for me why drastic change is so badly needed here in Kenya.

At the beginning of my placement I learned that much of our programming was targeted at the ASAL (Arid and Semi-arid Lands) counties and I was a bit confused as to why we were not working in all 47 Kenyan counties. However, on a recent visit to the county of Turkana I was able to see firsthand how little resources this arid region (basically the desert) has.

One of the remote schools in Turkana
I saw a place where you could drive for many kilometers and only see one or two schools. The roads are beyond terrible, water is scarce, nothing grows there except skeletal trees, and even teachers don’t want to work there. How can you expect children to go to school under these circumstances? And if they are able to get to school, there are not enough resources like classrooms, desks, and books to accommodate them. The sad truth is, most of the girls will be promised in marriage at 9 or 10 years old and become mothers when they are just teenagers. The boys will probably take some menial job or move to the closest city and wind up in the slums.
 
The beads signify these girls are promised in marriage - they will never go school
The second eye opening visit was just recently in my last two weeks with UNICEF.  In preparation for a new program on out-of-school-children we conducted two visits to the informal settlement (i.e. slums) of Korogocho and the nearby garbage dump of Dandora in Nairobi. Unbelievably, it was just 15 minutes from where I live that I saw things that will haunt me forever.
 
On my first visit I was actually impressed with how the area of Korogocho was built up. Mostly tiny corrugated tin houses but a lot of people doing various businesses of selling everything from fruits and vegetables to used clothing to pots and pans and tools. So many people were washing the dirt and dust off of their motorcycles, obviously taking pride in their possessions. The boda boda business of ferrying people to and from town on motorcycles, sometimes whole families, is extremely popular all over Kenya. This felt like a bustling mini-city with a booming economy. Of course, during the day, from the comfort of a UNICEF vehicle, you don’t see the black market business of alcohol, drugs, and prostitution.  And you cannot even imagine what goes on behind closed doors.
 
Hard to believe eight families live beyond this doorway
On my second visit I interviewed two young and extremely bright out of school adolescents living in Korogocho. The realities of being born into a slum became evident. Judith had finished primary school despite awful circumstances at home but could not afford to continue on to secondary school. She told us that every day she collects whatever she can from the dump to sell and tries not to get raped. She sleeps in a 6'x6’ shack with her mother, two sisters, and one brother. There is one window, a small jiko for cooking, water collected from a nearby tank at five shillings per jerry can, and an outhouse around the corner shared by seven other families in similar houses in the same square.
 
Judith - photo by A. Ohanesian
Going to the dump itself was actually scary. If you’ve never been surrounded before by giant vultures amidst decomposing, stinking garbage count yourself lucky. And even more so if you don’t have to see a child in filthy clothing walking barefoot among broken glass to pick up a scraps of plastic that he will sell for maybe 40 shillings (about 40 cents) a bag or a man pick up and eat a rotting piece of fruit and then smile at you because he’s happy he has something to eat that day. What makes you feel even more sick to your stomach is seeing all the pizza boxes or empty airline packaging and knowing that children are living off of the food that you threw out as you were traveling in complete comfort and security.


Foraging in Dandora dump - photo by A. Ohanesian


John is in, perhaps, a more favourable situation. Although also a reluctant dropout he has somehow discovered and is pursuing his talent for dance and acrobatics. Every day, he runs to keep in shape and trains with his troupe. I unfortunately didn’t get to see him perform but he did try to teach me a few breakdancing moves! I was not very good but none the less I was really impressed with his skill and enthusiasm. The reality is that most likely this will not lead to any real sort of income for John but in the meantime it keeps him from engaging in otherwise dangerous or illegal activities. And it brings him and those around him joy.
John - photo by A. Ohanesian
So, what does this all mean? You only have to look at the faces of these kids to see that hope is very much still alive in each of them. These children want a better life for themselves and their families. More work needs to be done to help them break the cycle of poverty. Much more work. If I can, in some small way, contribute to a solution for even a few of these children then I’m going to try my hardest to do just that.

Beauty in Korogocho
They say “A journey of a thousand miles starts with a single step”… and one year ago I started mine.

Sunday, 30 August 2015

Did you accomplish everything you wanted to?

People have already started asking me about my time Kenya and "did I accomplish everything I wanted to?" or "did the experience meet my expectations?".

That's tough to answer since I didn't know what to expect, at all, when I took this opportunity to move to Nairobi and work for UNICEF.

In previous posts I've mentioned a few of the initiatives I've been involved in, namely working with the Kenya Primary School Head Teachers Association (KEPSHA) on the child friendly schools program, the Ministry of Education/Kenya Institute of Curriculum Development (KICD) on curriculum reform, International Labour Organization (ILO) on the World Day Against Child Labour, and World Vision Kenya on the launch of the Physical School Health Checkup project. All very interesting endeavours and valuable partners for me to connect with.

Me at the World Vision Offices
In the past month, I've traveled to Mombasa for the KEPSHA Annual Delegates Conference, back to Naivasha for a curriculum reform stakeholders' forum, and to Machakos also for curriculum reform but this time for a technical meeting on needs assessment instrument validation. But by far the most interesting workshop I've been to was right here in Nairobi reviewing the Dadaab Refugee Camp education strategy.

Highlights of these meetings include interviewing the head teachers in Mombasa - these men and women truly believe in making their schools safe, inclusive environments for their students to learn and thrive. I felt very inspired and amazed in all the different ways they are empowering their children. I also spoke to two representatives from the newly elected National Children's Government who were equally inspiring in all that they hope to accomplish in the coming year and all that they have achieved at such a young age - being elected deputy president and cabinet secretary is very impressive!

Learning from one of the KEPSHA head teachers

My buddy for the week! (Esther, daughter of my colleague Asseneth)

Faith and Geoffrey of the Children's Government
In the meeting about the Dadaab Refugee Camp I met people from several of the organizations that have been working there for the past three years. I learned about some of the success stories but mostly about the challenges that are preventing this coalition from reaching more children. It's heartbreaking to hear about the situation in Dadaab and more so about the plight of refugees in general. With the current situation in Syria at the back of my mind, my heart goes out to all those that have to flee their country and the conditions they have to live in, in the unlikely event they reach a refugee camp. For the first time (in a separate conversation with a friend) I learned about people who don't have any nationality! I hope the government can find a way to support these agencies in improving the quality of life for everyone in the camps, especially the children.

Almost every day since I arrived I've found myself in conversations at work, home, and socially (because this town is FULL of development workers!) that honed my thinking about "aid" work that has been/is being done in Kenya and elsewhere in Africa. I see why there are such mixed feelings from the National and International community about whether these organizations and agencies are helping or hindering "progress" and the definition of "progress" itself.

Five months here has allowed me to become somewhat clearer on what role I see myself playing in this sector. But of course I've only been able to scratch the surface on all that is right and wrong with development work. I hope to spend my last month creating a more defined path for my immediate future in this field and wrapping up the work that I've started. As for the relationships I've made here, well I'm sure they will continue long after I leave the continent. I'm happy to say that my experience in Kenya goes far beyond "work" and it is the people that I've connected with that I'll remember and cherish the most.

With Asseneth in Naivasha
 
With Meseret and Grace at an Internations event

With Jonah and Noelle - night on the town
So, I suppose the answer is yes. Yes, I've accomplished everything I wanted to. Which was to meet people and make real connections, to be open to every piece of knowledge and experience that was shared with me, to say yes to every opportunity that was presented before me, to ask for and accept work that would challenge and excite me, and to make a tangible contribution to my team and UNICEF. In short, to carpe diem.

Thursday, 9 July 2015

What can you do in a month? Part 3 (Safari!)

Time flies when you're having fun! And June sure did fly by :)

The last week or so of Peter's visit was super fun with trivia night at the Canadian High Commission (ok, so we're not as smart as we thought!), impromptu dinners with the flatmates, and of course safari! I mean, you cannot come all this way, to KENYA, and not go see the animals, right? So off we went to the Maasai Mara for a few days.

We splurged a bit and flew instead of driving and we stayed in a lovely hotel, the Mara Serena. The hotel had a pool, spa, bar (the works really) but was nestled away on a hill top with a spectacular view - the animals were right outside our window! The rooms were very cute - I felt like I was in the Flintstones. However, I do think staying in a tent (ahem, a luxury tent) is still the way to go.

Up early (this was to be the theme of the next three days) and took a tiny plane from Wilson airport to an even tinier airstrip in the Mara. And thus our adventure began!

The beautiful vista as seen from our itty bitty plane

Ready for our vacation!
 
The lobby with amazing view
Some of the animals we could see from our window - buffalo and giraffes
Day 1 - lunch, rest, afternoon safari, dinner, documentary about cheetahs, bed.

On a side note, I refuse to call going to look at animals a "game drive" as this implies hunting which I in no way condone. A lot of people would say safari also means hunting animals however the word actually means "journey" in Kiswahili.

Cheeky baboon

Croc

Oh look, there's a Hippo too

I will never get tired of acacia trees

Highlight of the day - 3 lionesses and about 8 cubs

Cool birds - egrets maybe?

Elephants in the rain - so many of them!

Lots and lots of buffalo
Day 2 - get up early for morning safari, look for cheetahs (obviously!), have breakfast with HIPPOS, nap, lunch, afternoon/evening safari, dinner, Massai warrior performance, fire pit, bed.

Sunrise

More elephants (and a baby!)

We're going in there?! Our driver, Dedan, was awesome

Black rhinos

Male hippo just walking around

Found the lionesses again...without the cubs

Champers for breakfast? Yes, please!


Well worth the early start

Beside the hippos?! Awesome

I love the lone tree!

Oh! They were a huntin' (munching on zebra carcass)
Day 3 - get up early for morning safari, look for the Lion King (for real, we looked forever for the male), look for more cheetahs (very elusive, apparently crossed over into Tanzania so we could not follow), breakfast, pedicure, chillax by the pool, check out the steam room and spa facilities, hop on a plane home.


Sunrise #2

Tracking big cats...

All the way to Tanzania! (But didn't cross the "border")

Thomson's Gazelles (and baby!)

Impala


Hyena
 
Buffalo! They follow you like cows...creepy


Aaaaand....rest!


Our little gecko friend


Goodbye Maasai Mara! Until next time...

I fortunately had the next three days off work so Peter and I spent every waking (and non waking) moment together and prepared ourselves for a long three months apart. I think the highlight was taking a matatu into town (CBD or central business district) and just walking around like silly tourists. The matatu journey in itself was an adventure I had yet to work up the nerve to do in my months prior - it really cannot be explained for those that have never been here but check out YouTube to see what I'm talking about.

 


A matatu

Being a good tourist, taking pictures of random buildings

Stopped to have a drink - introduced Peter to the shandy!
After walking around the dusty streets of Nairobi trying not to get pick-pocketed (one cannot be too careful!) we treated ourselves to some fancy cocktails at the Sankara hotel in Westlands. Very ironic to rock up to a swanky hotel all sweaty and gross having just gotten off a matatu that cost us 50 KSH each (about $0.75).

Me and my boy :)
Mmmmm drinks and nibbles and the Sankara roof top patio

 And before I knew it Peter was back on a plane to Toronto and I was sitting in the apartment all by myself :(

Of course I'm very sad but also looking forward to what the next 3 months have in store for me!